First: Absolutely no vaccines, drugs, chemicals, commercial cat foods, or cat treats. There isn’t one cat food on the market that is fit to feed…not one…no exceptions.
I am hoping this article will encourage you to start your cats as soon as possible on my nutrition program so that your cats do have the possibility of being healthy. You need to read this entire article on cats so you recognize symptoms early, instead of waiting until your cat is a teenager and no longer has the Vital Life Force in which to repair, restore, and heal their bodies.
For those of you in Greater Los Angeles, Cheri Slater and Harold Jackson have started their own business preparing, selling, and delivering Pat’s Recipe. Give Cheri a call: 714-673-7612
There isn’t one pet food on the market that is fit to feed…none…no exceptions… this includes the companies that are selling raw pet food. Those foods are not fit for human consumption. They have ground bone, some have the wrong vegetables, some have fruits, some have herbs that should not be fed daily. You have two choices: 1) Feed Pat’s Recipe or 2) Prepare your own. Pat McKay Nutrition Program
Here are my reasons that you need to start your cat as soon as possible on my Nutrition Program:
1) Cats are not being fed properly. All cats must have raw meat in order to be healthy. Raw meat is their natural food. They need to eat according to my 90/10 ratio of 90% raw meat and 10% vegetables. There isn’t one feline in the wild that eats cooked or dried meat. Cats always eat fresh-kill.
2) Cats are being fed the wrong foods. There isn’t one commercial cat food on the market that is fit to feed…none…no exceptions. You must prepare only food fit for human consumption.
3) Cats are not being given the proper supplements. They must have BIO-8-Powder and CLO-3-Pearls.
4) Cats are being given vaccines, drugs, and chemicals. Absolutely NO vaccines, drugs, or chemicals are to be given to your cats.
5) Cats are more often than not already extremely ill before you contact me. You must be aware of symptoms early in the life of your cat.
6) I know you want a quick fix! There are no quick fixes.
7) You aren’t recognizing health issues until it is too late. A teenage cat will not have the Vital Life Force to regain his/her health, because they are too ill to be able to regain their health.
8) You aren’t recognizing symptoms, and most vets aren’t aware of the symptoms either. Cats are very secretive; that’s why YOU have to be aware of early symptoms and not wait until it is too late.
9) I receive emails telling me you spend hundreds, sometimes thousands of dollars, with allopathic veterinary tests and treatments…all to no avail…and then come to me and expect a miracle. I don’t do miracles!
Here are a list of symptoms that you need to know:
1) THIRST: If your cat drinks any water at all s/he is ill…A healthy cat does not drink water.
2) APPETITE: Any loss of appetite. Wants to eat little and often; malnutrition. Healthy cats are not finicky.
3) INDIGESTION: Discomfort after eating; vomiting, gagging, retching, distended abdomen, gastritis.
4) HAIRBALLS: Healthy cats do NOT have hairballs; they digest their hair and utilize the protein.
5) TOO THIN: Cats who have a tendency toward thinness or even emaciation; especially if they have a distended abdomen. I am not talking about the hanging skin, which is a wild cat syndrome.
6) TOO FAT: Cats who are overweight are not eating the proper food; just as people who are overweight are not eating the proper food.
7) URINARY: Kidney/Bladder trouble—urination too frequent; too scant; spraying urine; straining to urinate; inappropriate places of urination.
8) THYROID: Hyperthyroid is so prevalent in cats, and there’s no reason for it if they are eating properly, getting the correct supplements, and staying away from vaccines, drugs, and chemicals.
9) DIABETES: Another serious illness in cats because of sugar and grains in pet food. Cats are meant to eat raw meat and a tiny amount of vegetables, just enough to give them a little soft fiber, and the special nutriments vegetation provides. In the wild, felines get the some vegetation in the stomach of their small prey.
10) STOOLS: CONSTIPATION…even one hard stool; not having a daily bowel movement; chronic diarrhea or even occasional diarrhea.
11) RESPIRATORY: Coughing, asthmatic tendency, difficult respiration; noises in the chest area. Put your ear to his/her chest.
12) GUMS: Gum inflammations; red line along gums; diffusely red gums.
13) TEETH: Tooth decay; cervical (neck of tooth) lesions; root decay; abscesses.
14) EYES: Low level conjunctivitis, a little too red inside lids; watery discharges; mucous accumulation in corners, especially reddish (almost bloody looking at times) discharge inside corner of eye. Change in color of iris.
15) EARS: Ears irritated, itching; dark or oily or waxy discharge seen inside ear canals.
16) SKIN: Skin not healthy—slightly itchy; dandruff or flakiness.
17) COAT: Coat not looking good—rough coat, or dry or lusterless; change in coat color to lighter color or “reddish” or “brownish” cast. The coat should be smooth and soft.
18) NAILS: Dark discharge around the base of nails. Ragged nails.
19) MENTAL/EMOTIONAL: Fears: of people, noise, movement Aggression: unfriendly, attacking other cats, dogs, people. Hatred: hates other cats, jealousy, quarrelsome.
20) Pay attention to every little idiosyncrasy with cats, because cats do not indicate they are ill in any way until they are VERY ill…most of the time beyond saving.
It breaks my heart to see these absolutely gorgeous creatures suffer from vaccines, drugs, chemicals, pet food, pet treats. By the time people contact me, their cat is so ill that most of the time all I can do is make them comfortable during the death process.
Start your cat on my nutrition program before they are ill, because when they are ill it is very difficult to get them to eat at all, much less change their food at that time. Their kidneys shut down so quickly when they are not eating, so it is vital that you keep them eating.
Most cats die from dehydration. Whenever they are not eating you must provide raw meat broth. See below.
There’s no comparison to dogs and cats when we are talking about their basic illnesses and how their bodies function. Yes, they are definitely both carnivores, but canines can live on road kill; cats cannot. Felines are meant to eat fresh, live kill. Cats are excellent killers, very adept at killing; they see it as a sport as well as a means of livelihood. If they are not hungry at the time of the kill, they will leave the prey for another carnivore who isn’t as adept at killing. That’s one of their jobs in the wild…providing food for others.
Dogs bury what they don’t want to eat at the moment, and then go back for it when they are hungry. Cats do not do that. That’s why you have the domestic cat who wants fresh food all the time; who refuses to eat leftovers. Every cat family needs a dog to eat the leftovers.
If you are feeding pet food of any kind, dry, canned, even the raw pet food that is now on the market, you are killing your cat. They must eat food fit for human consumption. You must prepare the food yourself. See Recipes
Absolutely no vaccines: See my Free Ebook: NATURAL IMMUNITY, Why You Should NOT Vaccinate!
About 40 or 50 years ago, veterinarians and cat food manufacturers decided that the mineral, magnesium, was the reason why cats were having kidney ailments, so they took all the magnesium out of cat pet food. Magnesium is absolutely essential to the body, and especially for keeping the colon and bowels happy. So now, generations later, we still have cats with serious constipation issues…as well as many other issues and diseases caused by the lack of magnesium. Others include: Muscle cramps, twitching, weakness; fatigue, heart disease, including heart murmurs; excessive panting, indicating shortness of breath and anxiety.
Constipation also indicates the lack of vitamin C. There is a balanced amount of vitamin C in my BIO-8; however, constipated cats are severely lacking in vitamin C, so that’s where I suggest you start first. Add 1/2 teaspoon of Camu Camu powder to your cat’s food. Because cats are so sensitive to anything different in their food, start with just a sprinkle of Camu Camu powder, and keep increasing daily until you reach 1/2 teaspoon.
If the Camu Camu powder is not sufficient for daily or every-other day bowel movements, or their stools are still too hard, or your cat is straining to have a bowel movement, then you know there is also a magnesium deficiency. My BIO-8 contains a balanced amount of magnesium carbonate and magnesium oxide; however, for many constipated cats, they may need more. You may use Magnesium oxide or Magnesium glycinate; you may not use Magnesium citrate…all citrates are a poison to cats.
Adding the Magnesium is all trial and error; there is no way of knowing in advance how much each cat may need, so start with 200mg of either of the Magnesiums…oxide or glycinate…and see how your cat responds. That may be sufficient to be given daily or you may have to keep increasing the milligrams until your cat has a soft stool. Once the stool is soft, then back off with the amount of Magnesium.
If your cat has a runny stool, then you know for sure that you have given too much Magnesium; however, that’s not a problem; your cat just had a good cleanout.
Email me with any question you have. firstname.lastname@example.org
With cats it is important to find out why they aren’t eating and keep a journal of how much they are eating each day.
Cats will starve themselves: 1) if they are ill, 2) if they are dehydrated, 3) if they have thyroid, kidney, bladder, liver problems, or 4) if the food that is being offered isn’t a food they know.
Dogs are pack animals. If the leader of the pack (that’s you) says this is what you are going to eat, dogs know that the leader has checked the food out, and it is fit to eat.
Not so with cats. Cats live singly in the wild and they check out their food each time they are presented with something different.
It is important to understand that when they are kittens they instinctively know how to kill their prey; Momma cat doesn’t have to teach a kitten to kill; she does, however, have to teach her kittens what to eat. Some prey animals in the wild are poison to felines, so what they eat has to be taught by their parents.
When domestic kittens are put on commercial pet foods after weaning, they are being “taught” that pet food is okay. So later on when you change to raw, they are just doing what is natural for them and that is to be cautious, because they have already been imprinted with canned/dry foods as kittens.
Cats eat by smell, not taste, so they need to get used to the aroma of raw meat and blood.
It is relatively easy to put a kitten on raw meat because they are not already imprinted with commercial pet food; not necessarily so with adults. They are more difficult to convert to any new food because their instincts are more defined. If it is not one of the imprinted foods, they are very skeptical…and rightly so. Be patient with your cat and help him/her to understand that it is safe to eat raw meat.
In fact, if your cat isn’t eating the raw meat right away, you may have to mix the raw meat with the food they are used to eating, or hand feed or even force feed in order for them to understand that the raw food is perfectly okay for them to eat.
When hand feeding start by offering plain raw meat or straight blood from any meat; liver usually has the most blood. Don’t worry about the vegetables right at first.
First offer the blood or raw meat broth and see if they will lick it up themselves. If not, you may have to syringe it a few times so that they get used to the aroma of raw meat, because cats eat by smell, not taste.
You can also try putting a bit of raw meat on their paw, because cats must groom; they cannot stand to have anything on their paws.
Preparing Raw meat broth: One tablespoon of RAW ground meat, add to one-half cup of purified water, mash the meat in the water with a fork or put it through a blender or food processor and serve.
If possible, give plain raw blood. Beef liver is a good source. Or if your local butcher will provide blood, that is an option. Straight blood for cats is my first suggestion; however, it is not always available and raw meat broth is easily prepared.
If your cat will drink the broth on his/her own, that’s great; you are home free. However, if s/he won’t drink the broth, then my suggestion is to strain the broth so that it will go through a feeding syringe (Feeding syringes are available in pet stores or in the baby section of any drug store).
When syringing any liquid into a cat’s mouth, be sure you syringe from one side of the mouth or the other. Do not syringe straight into the cat’s mouth from the front of his/her mouth. Cats will choke on liquid very easily if the liquid is just running down their throat. The cat’s tongue must do the swallowing; you must see your cat’s tongue moving.