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Pat McKay
Animal Homeopathy

Pat McKay Animal HomeopathyPat McKay Animal HomeopathyPat McKay Animal Homeopathy

Pat McKay Nutrition Program

90% Raw Meat, 10% Cooked Vegetables, BIO-8, & CLO-3

To be at their optimum health, our dogs and cats must eat live food just  as coyotes, wolves, bobcats, and mountain lions do in the wild.

My  Nutrition Program for preparing meals for all kittens/puppies and  cats/dogs is 90% chunks of raw meat and 10% boiled or steamed vegetables  that have been mashed to the consistency of baby food or junior food  before mixing with the raw meat…and lots of butter in the vegetables.

To prepare one cup (8 ounces) of 90/10:   7 ounces of raw meat to 1 ounce of vegetables.

​​There isn’t one pet food on the market that is fit to feed…none…no exceptions…this  includes the companies that are selling raw pet food.  Those foods are  not fit for human consumption. They have ground bone, some have the  wrong vegetables, some have fruits, some have herbs that should not be  fed daily.  You have two choices:  1) Feed Pat’s Recipe or 2) Prepare  your own.

For  those of you in Greater Los Angeles, Cheri Slater and Harold Jackson  have started their own business preparing, selling, and delivering Pat’s  Recipe.  Give Cheri a call:  714-673-7612

In  order to have healthy dogs and cats, those of you who are not in the LA  area, you must prepare the food yourself.  I have found that Costco is  one of the places that has the best quality meats and vegetables, and  best prices.  For my dogs I am feeding Costco beef chuck, chicken thighs  with skin, lamb leg roasts, and pork butt…sometimes called pork  shoulder.

For  vegetables from Costco: zucchini, celery, broccoli, green beans, and  cauliflower.  Of course, if you happen to live in an area where you can  buy directly from farmers and ranchers who are raising meat and  vegetables organically, then you are the lucky ones.

 

Presently I am feeding Pat’s Recipe from Cheri & Harold. 

Previously  when I prepared my own food for my dogs I prepared the following meats:  beef chuck, chicken thighs with skin, lamb leg roasts, and pork  butt/shoulder.

For  vegetables: zucchini, celery, broccoli, green beans, and  cauliflower. Whether you prepare large amounts of food for several  cats/dogs or for one small dog or cat, the meat and vegetables are the  same.

You  may prepare sufficient amounts for your family of dogs/cats on a daily  basis or you may prepare large amounts and freeze it in packages  containing enough for their daily food.

I  steamed the vegetables in salted butter and covered with water on very  low heat in my cast iron skillet until they were soft enough to mash to  the consistency of baby food.

Whether  you use my method of steaming, or you boil the vegetables; whatever,  I’m sure there aren’t two people preparing their cat or dog’s food in  the same way…and that’s fine.  Whatever works for you.  What is  important is that you start with whole meats, cut the meat up in chunks,  that the meat is raw, and the vegetables are cooked and mashed.  

You  may have a cat/dog that eats 1 tablespoon a day or you may have one  that consumes 6 cups or more a day. No matter what size your animal, the  90/10 proportions remain the same. 

All meats and vegetables must be fit for human consumption.

PROTEINS, the best to feed are:  beef, lamb, chicken thighs, pork, turkey thighs,  buffalo, venison, elk, emu, ostrich, quail, duck, all fit for human  consumption. Be sure to rotate proteins.  It is best to feed a different  protein each day; however, on occasion if you have food left over, you  may feed the same protein two days in a row, but do not feed the same  protein more than two days in a row before rotating to a different  protein.

With  every meat that you buy, it is to be the fattest meat.  For instance,  Beef chuck, Lamb leg roast, Chicken thighs, Turkey thighs, Pork  butt/shoulder; the other meats I have listed are very lean, so you will  have to add lots of butter to those meals.  Dogs and cats need 30% fat;  people need 10% fat.

For  your cats and dogs’ health, all meats must be whole and cut into chunks  which are a convenient size for your particular animal.  I am opposed  to feeding ground meats for their meals, because cats and dogs in the  wild swallow their small prey whole, and when they catch a larger prey,  they bite off chunks.  Felines and canines do not eat ground meat in the  wild.  It is important to stay as close as possible to what your animal  would eat in the wild.

ORGAN MEATS

ORGAN MEATS: If  you have access to organ meats (heart, liver, kidney), then my suggestion is to feed 10% to 20% organ meat whenever available.  If you  don’t have easy access to organ meats, then when you can get them, feed  them as treats. When adding organ meats to the food, it must be the same  organ meat as the muscle meat; in other words, if you are feeding beef,  the organ meat must be beef; if you are feeding chicken, the organ meat  must be chicken, and so on. 

I  am opposed to feeding tripe because many dogs/cats cannot tolerate it.   For one thing it contains Lactobacillus acidophilus, which they cannot  digest and utilize; therefore, causing diarrhea and/or constipation, as  well as aggravating the entire gastrointestinal system.

VEGETABLES

VEGETABLES, the  best to feed are: broccoli, zucchini and any other winter or summer squashes, celery, cauliflower, green beans, asparagus, and occasionally  pumpkin. (Even canned pumpkin is fine as long as the label says 100%  pure pumpkin.)  Do not feed pumpkin every day as I have heard that some  are doing.  Dogs and cats need a variety of vegetables just as they need  a variety of meats.

Dogs  and cats should not be fed root vegetables such as carrots and sweet  potatoes.  Root vegetables by nature have too much sugar and starch.   Dogs/cats do not produce sufficient amylase which is the enzyme that  breaks down carbohydrates.

Greens:   Spinach, kale, dandelion, et al, should be fed only occasionally  because all greens are high in oxalates.  Oxalates reduce the body’s  ability to absorb all minerals, especially calcium and iron.Cats and  dogs should not be fed any vegetables that have a hull such as peas,  corn, or dried beans, because again, they do not have the necessary  enzymes to break down those hulls.  Green beans are the one exception to  beans.  Green beans take a long time to cook, and they need to be  mashed well.

In preparing your own food, here are some recipe suggestions:  Recipes

​No dried or freeze-dried foods or treats are to be fed.

SUPPLEMENTS:   You must add two basic supplements to your animal’s food program:  
BIO-8-Powder and CLO-3-Pearls. The BIO-8-Powder goes in their morning meal.
The  CLO-3-Pearls are given as a treat later in the day. Two slices of  salted butter with the CLO-3 soft gels in between.  I call this their  Butter Sandwich.  Dogs and cats need 30% fat…we need only 10%...so be generous with the butter.  Of course the grass-fed and/or organic  butters are best. They are readily available now.


The dosages for each of the supplements are on the labels of my products and/or you may email me for help in deciding their dosages.

ORDER  SUGGESTIONS:  BIO-8-Powder for your dogs and cats, BIO-8-Capsules for  you & CLO-3-Pearls for both of you.  BIO-8 & CLO-3 must both be  taken for a complete and balanced nutrition program.

Other  supplements may be needed for dogs/cats who are ill; however, they  should be selected with great care, because often you could be feeding  and/or giving energy to the very bacterium, virus, or fungus that your  cat or dog's body is fighting.

 

You  may email me for help in deciding whether your cat or dog needs additional supplements.  There is no charge for nutrition information or advice.

pat@patmckay.com

The only foods that should pass your cat or dog's lips are raw meat, cooked vegetables, BIO-8, and their Butter Sandwich.  CLO-3/Butter Sandwich

All food fed to your dogs and cats must be fit for human consumption

Any food labeled for animals cannot be trusted. Even the companies producing raw foods for dogs and cats have filler ingredients. Do not believe the marketing ploys of animal food companies.

The following is a list of No-No's for dogs/cats:
NO grains, cereals, bread, rice, pasta, dairy, fruit, yeast, rabbit (except from organically raised from a farmer/rancher you know personally, and no ground rabbit that includes the bones), soy, ground bone, bone meal, egg shells, alfalfa, kelp, canned/dry foods, freeze-dried, dehydrated  foods, commercial dog treats, milk bones, rawhide, pigs' ears,  nylabones, etc.

No herbs of any kind should be in their food.  Herbs are medicinal; they are to be given for specific reasons, and specific times and dosages.

NO fruits of any kind.

NO vegetables with hulls (peas, corn, beans, etc). 

NO root vegetables:  carrots, sweet potatoes, etc.

Green  beans that have been thoroughly cooked and mashed are the one exception  to beans; in fact, they are of exceptional value for diabetes, obesity,  heart disease, and cancer. 

NO nightshade vegetables: white potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, or iceberg lettuce or raw spinach.

NO drugs,  chemicals, or poisons, including vaccines, frontline, advantage,  advantix, program, heartgard, antihistamines, antibiotics, rimadyl,  benadryl, flagyl, steroids, etc.

Natural solutions to all of these drugs, chemicals, and poisons are available.

There are always exceptions to the above No-No's, so if you have any specific questions, I am happy to answer them for you.
Email pat@patmckay.com

For free nutrition information and advice, email Pat McKay 

pat@patmckay.com


Copyright © 2021 Pat McKay Animal Homeopathy - All Rights Reserved.

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